Bishkek is on the map about 800 km from the border. Until now, the card at the distance reliably at least ten percent less in the mountains far longer displayed. So 900km?, 1000km? We do not know. We had planned my birthday tomorrow in Bishkek to celebrate ... now it's just a matter of no man's land between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan to come out. After well with the burning yak dung slept heated room next to the son of the family, we are on a bit more rested.
The view from the door shows us a white mountains. It is hard to imagine that one has recently more than Haribo melted and completely sweaty sleep at about 30 degrees made thoughts. The snow can be slowly and as neither the family with whom we have been sleeping, can help us, seems to still use any car that road, I make myself without luggage, with only one filled with snow water bottle on the way to the Kyrgyz border post to to find a car that ND and the baggage can get from the mountain. 
The Noodledude now waiting on the next car that comes along and tries to get the luggage down to the valley. I run going with quick steps over the partially washed way down to the Kyrgyz border post. The landscape is beautiful and there is even a bit of joy to me when I think about how we got here. I look forward to the Pamir foot come down and laugh a little to myself when I realize how we have started two months ago with no plan in Berlin. How many things have happened, that we never expected. After about an hour of running I hear a truck behind me. I turn around and wait in joyful Expectation that ND pops out and I can ride to the border post. The truck driver look at me aghast and drive easy. I am a little upset with ND What's he doing up there? Origami figures to build? Snowball fight? He should stop the next car. I can not imagine why he had not sat in this truck.
After an estimated two hours I'm out of the valley to another valley huge and the first snow in my bottle of water. The road is now reasonably repaired and run towards me two backpackers. The first man, except the truck driver and the Kyrgyz family I meet. As things turn out, two French, coming straight from China and I warn of the taxi drivers in Sary-Tash. They each carry about 15 kilos and want to camp in no man's land because her visa to Tajikistan until 25 begins. I wish them a nice border, warning them against one or the other thing in Tajikistan and align my regards to ND. We continue towards the border and out of date again me a truck without ND I do not anymore because ND has stopped anyone. The moment when I see the border post, and I can already estimated that only a few miles away from her, here comes the redemption. A truck with ND and the entire luggage. I squeeze into the cab and get immediately reported adventurous negotiations over the price of the few kilometers to the border. The first truck would actually have all our money. It was pretty outrageous claims, and only the third has embarked on a fairly reasonable price. Here we had so much forward to Kyrgyzstan. But again it is clear one is just a stupid tourist, especially if he is using to exclude simple. We consider whether we can somehow distance himself from the other tourists, so that does not go on like this. "We are working with the GTZ and only want to check out whether it is worthwhile here to start a project, or whether people just are not sufficiently helpful ..."
First of all, it is relatively easy by the Kyrgyz border post. A soldier loads his Kalschnikow directly behind me, which makes me wince briefly. Otherwise, no further incidents. The truck driver and offers us the next day to ride for our money last Tajikistan to Osh. We have had enough and want a warm shower. So we will be unloaded at the town square of Sary-Tash and listening to the warning of the French, I was negotiating immediately with a Tajik family that goes to Osh before. One is willing to take us for our last Tajik money and $ 10 to Osh. As car is a Golf III. The family consists of father, mother and two children. My backpack takes the Centre seat in the back seat full on. So we are six to four places. must be the way every now and then a stupid grimace for the children taken to stop them whining.
the evening after several passes and various problems with the car we will arrive in Osh. Even before the city every second house has burned. There is a military control on the city and of course we will immediately stop. We come from Germany. In Germany, but everything is so clean, why do we see from so dirty? This costs Tight! We have no desire to debate and put us right back into the car. But then has to pay the driver. Punishment because he has a crack in the windshield ...
We drive to the center of Osh and feel at once the depressed mood, which is above the city. The Uzbek hospital is in ruins. Kyrgyz flags waving everywhere. Actually, we've got all the time, particularly after the strains in Tajikistan to Osh and a warm shower, but here, where there are people that are soooo brave to set fire to a hospital, no one holds us. So, to where the taxis depart to Bishkek. We will, we immediately besieged by several drivers. The customers seem scarce. Since each transaction is totally unnecessary at least 10 people, has ND high $ 70 asking who takes us for this award to Bishkek. The price seems be high, because once we are placed in a taxi. When we invited our entire luggage in the car and sit there at once is $ 70 per person. We are not in the mood for jokes, which remembers the driver immediately and offered us an alternative to the price of $ 80, if another person ride takes you. From one person to two, and suddenly we sit fifth in the cushions of an old Mercedes been established. In general, it seems to be only in Kyrgyzstan German cars. Mercedes, VW and Audi are the dominant brands. Kyrgyzstan is probably the country with the highest percentage of German cars in the world. Before we leave, I will still presented the pregnant wife of the driver.
ND has a few beers to toast concern on my birthday, which the fat already drunken soldiers, of course, immediately noticeable ... It then goes through the night with two soldiers stinking of alcohol. Fortunately, sleep the one who sits with us in the back seat soon and we just have to endure the chatter of the other, can understand at all why we do not know the family members of Angela Merkel. One is tempted to say. "This is democracy, if one does not know the family of the President" To Twelve whispers ND the warmest congratulations in his ear, so that the fat soldier does not wake up. To sleep is not to really think and we are then in the morning in Bishkek. 
Or rather close to Bishkek. The driver stops at the bazaar, which is not really in the center and makes it clear that he is not willing to drive us on. ND helps him to puncture a tire change. When the driver then says what he wants for the tour to the center, he is ND Help for the tire change with the same sum. It is discussed consents to the driver. Probably because his second wife / girlfriend (next to the pregnant in Osh) has now been received and an even longer discussion Währe been very unpleasant. We land at Sakura Guest House. Much to my delight, there are no more beds in dormitory and we end up in the doubles. Short or a "sign of life " on the blog. And then my greatest birthday presents: a shower sleep warm and ...
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