New day, new luck! We try our luck again to be towed from the street. Lange goes nothing. The Mongol-Kids do not stop even when we try to stop. Your lucky that I will meet them again. Even the French Red Cross and the best off-road vehicles since Dushanbe are afraid their car might break down and leave us. That is not easy. But this is again typical of the NGO Fuzzis: "I want to change something for good in the world." - But not in a position there are two remaining students to help.
Finally comes the redemption Four Poles (the first of Poland, we meet on our trip) to keep with her Land Rover and give us first what to eat for then to tow with all their forces (Polish pie!). The tow rope breaks three times, the steel cable, which actually hold up to 4 tons should, on the first try. At the passes, all to get out on the drivers, because we do not usually get across.
We also go on the small road switchbacks. In short, 40km to Alichur real hard work, the next largest village. On the way, we meet by chance then also an expedition group of Poles who proclaim proudly that they had the first across Poland China crossed by car.
Then of course raised a!
is here again to thank the first people who were also in the Pamirs who have acted as thanks and announced that it at any time for an accommodation in Berlin you!
adopt in Alichur we warmly by the poles meet, the New Zealanders again and find a student who can translate for us. We offer the cylinder head gasket repairs $ 60. All are promising and that there is no problem at all the appropriate tool manufacture. -Is it yet.
So the town pitted against each other and pushed the price for a truck transportation of 240 $ for 100km to Murgab to 160 $. Said that otherwise one of us drives a taxi and then brings out a cheaper truck ... Murgab However, the truck no license plate and must therefore set ourselves apart from Murgab 1km. We agree. Besides, we are of the pretty student invited to her home, with the remark because her parents do not ... So there still drink the tea.
The next day the bus is loaded, and immediately stop the wooden floorboards of the truck ... The next uncertainty is the length of the loading area. The rear tire of the bus are only a third to just this. All said no problem. While ND just shakes his head and on the other hand, is the car for so many potholes, and transported uphill, I make jokes with stomach the decision.
For all tires, the air is let out, so the bus does not jump off the platform. With old phone lines, it is then exhausted ... We insist that we are up to the "center" run by Murgab because we no air in the tires do not subsidize the last kilometer to be towed. So come along have to make the village policeman, so that the police at the checkpoint us through. I decide to ride the bus and to actuate the front brake, because that is about the only reliable to this construction. An old man would also like to so he sits in the passenger seat.
goes with a good view then several hours astonished faces of nomadic past as far as Murgab.
In Murgab we are once again welcomed by New Zealand cyclists astonished. - Once again the highlight of our day.
but we had just taken the scooter ...
Murgab turns out to be quite a one-horse town (if it's because of all cows were) out. I have now from the continued force of the brake cramps. ND has a headache and fever. After having malaria at the Tajik-Afghan boundary and have told us a few locals there have warned about the mosquitoes, he believes he would have malaria. Probably make him the height and create a cold. Sun battered, we must pull ourselves together to negotiate in the next few days focused to do as if we are wonderful and we would call if need a transport helicopter, which brings us together car to Osh. Thus we learn the most important rule of the Pamir, perhaps quite Tajikistan: no matter how bad it is one - never reveal that it is so. Just pretend as if you had a lot of options to eat a satellite phone in his pocket, and enough good humor. Never say that you shit in a Emergency is. Everything is now twice as expensive because it so really needs.
We are, after I asked a few mechanics Kyrgyz unsuccessfully for the appropriate tool to supposedly "best mechanics Murgab, even if not of the Pamirs" passed. Again I say that he only gets money if he can get the head gasket replaced. It is agreed. The car is towed to the garage 500 meters. Where the driver of course would have petrol money for this trip. We have now not $ 100 more in your pocket by up to Kyrgyzstan to come. ND will change money, and he's 50 €, which I still have it as a last reserve, just get rid of an absolutely bad rate. Credit cards can be forgotten within a radius of at least 300 km completely. When we ask for a way to raise money, we will only be laughed at.
So we stand at the workshop of the mechanic of our "trust". After two hours of trial and error with the screws to put ND and I are next to it slowly and ask what to do. first Possibility: One goes to Khorog, get tool. Problem when there is no tool in Khorog, one must continue to Dushanbe. 2. One way goes to Osh and collected as a tool, not what is unlikely to completely Kyrgyzstan moves Audi or VW. Problem: We do have Double entry visa for Tajikistan, but no such for Kyrgyzstan. We opt for the 3 Possible due to time and budget reasons (actually, we do not have the money to get ahead without a car, only enough diesel) car for sale. We know that we would not achieve the same price as in Bishkek, it would probably be the only VW bus in Tajikistan and that it will not be so easy to declare the car, but the first prospective buyers have already reported. A few taxi drivers. Slowly familiar with local conditions (for now the opposite down) Make me laugh them out of China for their taxi. So I wake even more interest. While the mechanics still trying to loosen the screws, I find myself already in price negotiations. $ 1,000 offered me. We note that it can not go on, the mechanics also have not given up. So we send the taxi driver's home and eat only once with the mechanics, we are invited (to the Pamir-Art: on one end is presented with the bill for the meal) to salty milk tea and bread. The ND goes to New Zealanders, Richard, of him when he hears of our money problem, just $ 200 pressed into the hand, just like that, that we should then report to him by e-mail when we get home, do not even know they want our full name.
put off the next day we all potential buyers on the evening looking, half-hearted in Murgab for a suitable Torx (an Audi driver is actually the same, only containing a little less), finally we give but our things, to clean the car and sort what can be given away. Besides, I discover at the mechanic a Imbussatz, but actually carries the price tag of Autotip in Berlin. Incredibly, we are not the first Berlin, die here.
Actually, we wanted our stuff that we no longer need to give away, but as the first for the prices of the junk that is in front of the car, ask, do we have an opportunity to leave with satisfaction the Pamir, we Murgab flog the whole lot of half to get the most ridiculous things (goggles in the Pamirs ...) money. The Noodledude goes to a bazaar full of traders, while I was deliciously amused. To be on top as disinterested buyer for the bus now suddenly very excited. All the questions of passers for the prices of the tools for our prospective allegedly no use unsettle them. Somewhere we've also fear that the car is one snapped in his face ... It is now at $ 1500. I declare that tomorrow I to Osh go and spare parts hole, because so cheap I could the car even sell well not really ... (In fact, we have no other choice than they sell. The mechanics have been abandoned and, as things turn out later in the 300km away Khorog there not the appropriate Torx key.) I'm aware, but it creates the buyer on an emotional level to drive up to 2000 $, plus safe passage across the border. I propose immediately. Then again the price is always trying to push back down. And again I say I is not white like in the Pamirs, but in Germany is one of the handshake of a man. The resulting Embarrassment continues to provide a stable price, even though the money is far from paid. be initiated during the night must, of course, the home buyer to the deal and we get the best food in Samarkand. The fact that the stall of the buyer during the quarter is fuck test of Murgab and the vodka is poured after all the time, makes us somewhat suspicious. But our worries seem unfounded, the purchase is sealed and then it goes (it's Saturday night) in a concert and in the Murgab. Who's been there, know what I mean.
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