We expected to arrive in the morning, but the ride drags on indefinitely. The second pass is a tunnel and the moment where we enter, I remember the story of two acquaintances who have crossed the tunnel. "The tunnel is at the half the year and the remainder in half water, is endless, no escape, . No pavement and no oxygen and when the Tajik Maruschkas have reached the end, they stop first, and all talk to their relatives that they have survived, "Well they probably had a bit of an exaggeration - there At times, it surfaced road. While there are in the mountains rather beautiful and rather poverty-stricken villages, we finally come to Dushanbe and the first ugly villas of the super-earners are in the valley. When we just go on a particularly large with extra security precautions over and I still I awakened in the tunnel ND say. "As well, the President lives" we are already waved out by the police. In all of Tajikistan can drive seems like the devil, but before that building is not ... - hit, in fact, the Presidential Villa!
We go directly to the Foreign Ministry in Dushanbe to grudge the stamp that has forgotten the Tajik embassy can. From there we will be passed on to a villa where we are for once treated well and get the stamp immediately. When asked why we did not get a tourist visa and now the trouble with registering with us, is just a shrug. The problem seems with the Tajik Embassy in Berlin are already known ...
So to the registration office. There will not register to us, although the error with the visa is not with us. We should pay for the registration of $ 25, we also need a letter from a travel agency, which will cost us $ 30-40 or we have to stay at the hotel. All discussion attempts fail and we must finally give up and look around for a travel agency, as we had planned not to sleep in Dushanbe. (If we had known in what way we would later cross the Tajik-Kyrgyz border, we would just keep driving without registration ...) So a travel agent looking for. It is now 17h and we have not had breakfast. So run shall remit from travel agent to travel agent not ready $ 70 per person for registration, as is required of us at times. In the end, we hire unnerved two beds in a hotel for 10 $. The paper from the hotel we make it on the way back to the registry office. Since the assignment has changed, we must once again declare our case - with the result that we simply do not want to register. Somewhere seems to be a screw, which would be lubricated ... I'm bursting with rage and throwing my backpack against the wall the office. Whereupon the shakes all scared, so what we had then but do not expect foreigners. To cool me, I walk out the door, whereupon I shall also addressed immediately by an old man, how come I then: ". Germanja", "? Niemcy". "There,". "fascist" - I note the man no further, and simmering with rage. But my sudden explosion seems to have borne fruit. We be called into the office of the employees, it offered us a chair and an interpreter is called. She shares with us the same thing, what we were previously told in Russian. It will not register us, except, yes, unless we turn on a travel agency. Unnerved we go back to the hotel. There, we meet a worn Canadian who has not set foot in his country for 30 years, grade comes from Afghanistan ("guys go, not going there, that's dangerous!") And is wanted by Interpol. It can be used reasonably well spend the evening at least better than the Mongol Rally Kids (more on that in a separate blog entry), which also park outside the hotel. (An experience of our trip: The people who find themselves in conflict with the police or even sitting in jail, were always the most correct and those with whom one could get by the best of Istanbul be moved away to Tehran, Ashgabat, Tashkent, Dushanbe and Bishkek.) First, of course the car in front of the hotel because astronomical sums are required so that the car is "guarded". I assume and I will of course immediately stopped by the police, I steal a pen. After I had the car then in a very dark road, with no guaranteed security, turned off, I just want to sleep. I've had enough, during the Noodledude still in vain in search of a nightlife in Dushanbe and because it makes drops shells (like all Tajiks) on the ground, with the hotel concierge to conflict. Slowly we are tired of be treated as long as we not bribe or permanently give away money like dirt too.
shame out of sheer anger, we barely had time to admire the beautiful landscape.
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